We’d seen enough of the city, so the next day we decided to
explore some surrounding areas. I’d heard about Burana Tower just outside of
little town of Tokmok (about an hour of driving from Bishkek), so we thought we
would check it out. The tower, along
with grave markers, some earthworks and the remnants of a castle and three mausoleums,
is all that remains of the ancient city of Balasagun which was established by
the Karakhanids at the end of the 9th century. The tower was originally 45 m (148 ft) high. However, over the
centuries a number of earthquakes caused significant damage to the structure.
The last major earthquake in the 15th century destroyed the top half of the
tower, reducing it to its current height of 25 m (82 ft). It was used
as minaret, a watch tower, and a sort of a light house for those traveling
along the Silk Road.
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Burana Tower |
Batyr, our
reception guy at the hotel, told us how to get there by ourselves if we were up
for a little adventure. We were! We were to go to one of the two bus stations
in Bishkek and get on a little marshrutka (minibus) that said “Tokmok Express”
on its windshield. Once in Tokmok we could get a taxi to Burana Tower. And that
is exactly what we did.
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Bus Station with all of the little marshrutkas |
We got to Burana
Tower and asked our taxi driver to wait for us for an hour while we explored
the site. It was midmorning on a Saturday, and we were the only visitors. We
were told that later in the day the wedding parties would arrive as it was a
popular destination for wedding pictures. But at the moment we had it all to
ourselves. First we explored the little museum. One of the ladies who live
there to watch over the site, opened it for us and showed us everything. I have
to say that the little museum was much more impressive than the National
History Museum in Bishkek we visited the day before!
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Spencer at the entrance to the site |
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The red roof building is where the museum workers live/stay. The right wing of it is the museum. The yurt next to it is the souvenir shop. |
Then the lady
gave us the keys to the tower, so we could explore it on our own. First you had
to climb up the metal staircase to get to the little door leading into the
tower, and then up the winding stairs to the top of the tower. The staircase
inside the tower was super narrow and dark, and quite steep. I think Spencer
felt claustrophobic in there, I think I did too. But we made it and it was worth it! The view
from the top of the tower was beautiful! The tower was surrounded by Chuy Valley
to the north (that goes all the way to Kazakhstan) and white peaks of the Tian
Shan mountains to the south.
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The metal stairs you have to climb to get to the entrance to the tower |
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The entrance to the tower |
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The steep stairway inside the tower. |
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Tiny windows inside the tower |
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On top of the tower. Behind me are the Tian Shan mountains which you cannot see because of the morning fog. |
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A few minutes later, and you can see the mountains now. |
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I might be mistaken but I think this is one of the kurgans - an ancient burial place for a warrior or someone famous. Either way it looks like one. |
Then we explored
the nearby site of headstones and landmarks. They were gathered from the
surrounding area. The people that lived in the area were of different religions
- from Pagan, Buddhism, and
Christianity to Islam, so the tombstones were different as well.
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The tombstones. |
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Spencer between two tombstones. |
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This one was pretty neat. |
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Another tombstone |
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These are mills that were used at that time. |
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While we were looking around the site, this group of local Kyrgyz went by. |
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A view of the tower with the kurgan on the right. |
We decided that Bishkek itself was an ordinary post soviet era city but
the nature around it is amazing. And if you are into hiking, camping, mountain
skiing, or anything to do with the outdoors, then a trip to Kyrgyzstan
is a must!
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