Sunday, October 18, 2015

Trip to Rome Part II - The Colosseum, Forum, and Pantheon

When we looked at the weather forecast for the week, we saw that Monday was supposed to be the only non-rainy day.  We decided that we would spend that day at the more outdoor attractions - and primarily the Colosseum - so we could be inside museums on the rainy days.

Breakfast!


Our hotel had a breakfast.  It was pretty light - some pastries and cookies and toast with marmalade.  But it was included in the price and was fun.  Our kids loved the coffee machine that made cups of hot chocolate to order.  They had hot chocolate every morning and sometimes a few cups worth.  After breakfast we walked to the Metro station.  We have spent lots of time on the Metro in Moscow, and Rome's lines were much smaller, so we were comfortable.  We made one switch at the main station at rush hour, which was very crowded, but otherwise, the subway rides were comfortable and easy.  Besides walking and our taxi to and from the airport, the Metro was the only transportation that we took.

We arrived at our stop at the Colosseum at about 10 a.m.  We expected that we would have to walk a ways to get to it, but it was literally right across the street from the station.  It was very cool.  We had purchased our tickets in advance so we skipped the lines and went right in. We didn't sign up for any guided tours, just went at our own pace and looked at the placards.  The Colosseum is very impressive, and I can understand why 7 million people visited it last year[1].  It is an impressive building for today, and the fact that it was built nearly 2000 years ago and is still standing is even more so.  We walked all over and had a good view of the structure from top to bottom. We even bought some souvenirs at the gift shop, so we were really living the tourist life!


As we walked off the Metro.


Sitting on the steps inside the Colosseum.


A recent find: a part of a sculpture of a horse and rider.


Walking into the Colosseum.


Spencer explaining something to the girls: it was probably something profound!


Lovely ladies at the Colosseum!


Recently excavated statue heads.


Archaeological work going on behind the fence.


A view into the bottom.  Under the arena was a city for the gladiators and animals used in the shows.


From the top!


A view from the Colosseum: the tall trees with the tuft at the top were our favorites!


Leaving the Colosseum.


Our ticket included a visit to the Palatine Hill. The hill is where the word palace and palatial come from.  It was where the Roman leaders built their homes.  It overlooked the valley where the Forum was located.  It was a short walk from the Colosseum to the area.  This area was mostly ruins and fragments of the ancient part of the city.  There was quite a bit of active archaeological work going on.  We spent about an hour and a half walking around and seeing the area.  The kids were mostly excited about sticks, snails, and rocks that they could find and it was all we could do to keep them from climbing trees, rocks, and ruins, but we made it!

Skipping on the cobblestone road, on our way to Palatine Hill.


A water fountain.  These were everywhere in the city - even among the ruins.  We failed to keep Sophie from climbing this one.


A view of the ruins around the Forum.  To the left is Palatine Hill.


Another view of the forum and of archaeological work being done.


Inside a temple to Julius. 


A church within the ruins.


More ruins.


A triumphal arch.


Taking a break.  Souvenirs in tow!


View of the Forum from the Palatine Hill.


Walking among the ruined walls of a palace.


A view of the city from the hill.


After taking in the ruins of ancient Rome, we decided we would walk to the Pantheon.  We had bought a map on our way to the Metro in the morning.  We got our bearings and took off.  We were looking for a place to eat and to go to the bathroom [2].  We had planned on not eating any fast food while we were in Rome, but Yulia had read that the most reliable bathrooms were at McDonald's.  After we had walked for about 30 minutes without finding a place to eat that wasn't completely out of our price range (and patience range with 4 kids), we saw a sign for a McDonald's.  We decided we would eat there.  It was probably a good thing, since everyone else had read the tour guides and it took 30 minutes of waiting in line for our crew to get their business done.  Meanwhile I ordered food and found the only spot available - a table on the rooftop.  We were there with the cool Italian kids who were smoking up a storm and eating happy meals [3].

Walking to the Pantheon.  Colosseum in the background.


A statue of Julius Caesar at a bus stop.


A view of the city.  Buses, horses, and churches!


Monument to Victor Emmanuel II which we found while walking to Pantheon. It was started in 1850 and finished in 1911. It has the statue of Rome and the tomb of the Unknown Soldier.


On the roof of McDonald's - with some guests!

A toy store with wooden toys - the motorcycle was impressive.


We found the Pantheon quickly after our meal.  Just like we had missed the lines everywhere else, we missed them here, too.  The Pantheon is the oldest continually-used Roman building left.  It was built in about 120 AD by Hadrian (on the site of an earlier building). It has been used as a Catholic church since the 7th century. We were able to walk right in and see.  The building was beautiful and impressive.  The domes and the intricate work inside was reminiscent of St. Peter's.  We spent about twenty minutes admiring the art and work of the building.

The Pantheon.


Inside the Pantheon.


Beautiful statues and marble everywhere!


The girls after a long day of culture!

Our next stop was Piazza Navona which is one of the largest and more beautiful squares in Rome. It is located in the area of ancient Domitian's Stadium, of which it preserves the original shape. Three fountains adorn the square. The most remarkable is the one in the center, a work by Bernini. The fountain is decorated by 4 statues representing the Danube, the Ganges, the Nile, and the Rio de la Plata.

Making wishes in the fountain with coins.


Watching this man make animals out of grass.


He really put on a show for the girls!


Our last stop was the Piazza del Popolo.  Here is the description of the square from Wikipedia[4]:

Piazza del Popolo is a large urban square in Rome. The name in modern Italian literally means "People's Square", but historically it derives from the poplars (populus in Latin, pioppo in Italian) after which the church of Santa Maria del Popolo, in the northeast corner of the piazza, takes its name. 
The piazza lies inside the northern gate in the Aurelian Walls, once the Porta Flaminia of ancient Rome, and now called the Porta del Popolo. This was the starting point of the Via Flaminia, the road to Ariminum (modern-day Rimini) and the most important route to the north. At the same time, before the age of railroads, it was the traveller's first view of Rome upon arrival. For centuries, the Piazza del Popolo was a place for public executions, the last of which took place in 1826.
On our way into the square, we bought some gelato.  The kids (and to be honest, Yulia) really wanted to get gelato.  Everyone tried a different flavor.  Yulia had rice and honey.  I had apple and mint.  It was really yummy (and only moderately overpriced due to our very touristy location).  As we were walking out of the gelato shop and onto the square Yulia was given a rose by a southeast Asian man.  He said, "For you, and your girls." He then handed each of the girls a rose.  Yulia was caught off guard (gelato will do that to you) and took them.  The man then asked for money, "whatever you can give."  Yulia shrugged and so I gave the man 10 Euros.  It was way too much, but the girls were happy.  Another man ran over and said, "The girls need three each, for luck." and gave the girls each two more.  He then asked for money.  I only had 5 Euros cash (other than large bills) and so I gave that to him.  It wasn't enough. We told him it was all we had, so he took one flower back from each of the girls.

At least we got a picture of all of us out of our rose fiasco!


It was a good opportunity to review with the girls that you never take anything from anyone.  We were a bit miffed at having been taken in the scam, but it was mild as far as scams were concerned.  We finished our gelato and then walked to the Metro and rode home.  We left the roses on a newspaper stand at the Metro in case someone wanted them - we didn't have a place for them in our room - and they were about ready to wilt away, anyway.  The girls didn't love that decision either [5].

Dinner on day 2 - Pizza and Pasta!


For dinner we stopped at a little pizza and kebab place near our apartment.  The girls had pizza (except Lexa who had Penne pasta with Ragu sauce) and me (I had roast chicken and potatoes).  We crashed into bed at about 8:30 (which is 12:30 a.m. in Astana) and slept soundly.  It was a great first full day.  We felt like we connected with ancient Rome, tackled transportation, and learned how to be tougher tourists.  All of these things are important to a wandering clan such as ours.
____________________
[1] Statistic overheard from a tour guide at the Vatican Museum during our visit.
[2] This is a very big deal on all of our travels - a family of five girls makes travel a few degrees more adventurous!
[3] Smoking is very common in Rome.  Much more common than even Russia.  Also, we saw quite a few teenagers and young adults eating Happy Meals, so it may be a thing.  Trend alert!
[4] Don't judge.  It has some good background information. LINK
[5] I'm hoping to make it into the finals in this year's Meanest Dad contest.

Saturday, October 17, 2015

Our Fall Break Trip to Rome Part I - Saint Peter's Basilica

Last year for fall break we didn't go anywhere.  That was fine - the kids had school and I had plenty of work to do.  This year Yulia was really anxious to go somewhere new and different.  One of the appeals of living and working in Kazakhstan was the chance to travel.  We decided on Rome (over Istanbul) and made arrangements.  Yulia booked our flight through the Russian airline Transaero and rented a two-room bed and breakfast flat near the Vatican.

Transaero has been going through a difficult time.  The airline was expanding quickly and had purchased a number of new aircraft.  When sanctions hit Russia and the Ruble started to lose value, the company was hard hit.  Right after we booked our tickets, it was announced that the company would be purchased by Aeroflot.  The week before we were supposed to fly, that deal fell through and the company announced that it was going bankrupt and would cease flying on 15 December.  Starting on October 2, they started cancelling flights - and would only confirm 24-48 hours in advance whether a flight was still going to occur.

We had booked our tickets through Travelocity, so we tried to call on Wednesday (October 7) to see if we could cancel our tickets.  They said that we couldn't unless the airline cancelled the flight, and we wouldn't know that the airline cancelled the flight until Friday evening or Saturday morning.  We were scheduled to fly out on Sunday morning (the 11th) at 6:20 a.m.  We decided that we would wait and see (we had thought if we could cancel that we would try to fly somewhere else - maybe Poland or Germany - because flights are cheaper and more available there).

Our flight wasn't cancelled - so we were on.  We decided that we would roll with whatever came our way flightwise.

Ready to fly!

Sunday morning we woke up early and took two taxis to the airport.  We packed in all carry on configuration in case we were stuck somewhere.  We checked in with no problem and got seats near the front of the plane.  We knew that Transaero was a discount airline and didn't expect to even be fed, but we were given a nice breakfast.  The seats had enough room and the plane was clean and nice.  We landed at Vnukovo airport in Moscow at about 7:00a.m. local time.  Neither of us had flown through Vnukovo before (Just Sheremetyevo and Domodedovo), but the airport was nice.  We were able to get through our second security and passport check and find a seat.  There was a big group of orthodox jews waiting for a flight to New York at the gate next to us, and another group on its way to Israel a few gates down.  It was an opportunity to have an interesting conversation with our children about religious differences.

At Vnukovo airport in Moscow

It's been 4 years since we were in Moscow last time. We were barely here this time!

Our flight to Rome was nearly empty, but we had another nice flight - sitting in economy plus with LOTS of leg room.  We landed at Leonardo Da Vinci airport at around 1:00 p.m. and made it through passport control and customs without problem.  We were met by our taxi and driven to our hotel.  We had to wait for about twenty minutes for the them to come and open the doors and check us in.  Pierpaulo was the owner and he was very friendly.  He and his girlfriend Chiara talked to us for awhile, showed us the map and how to get around, and got the kids hooked on soy milk (it's in the fridge for breakfast).

Look at that awesome legroom on our flight to Rome!

Mediterranean Sea!
A view from the balcony of our B&B mini hotel

We unpacked and relaxed for a little while and then decided we'd walk around to get our bearings and to find the Metro station.  We found the Metro station easily (about a two block walk from our apartment). Then we started walking and accidentally found St. Peter's Basilica.  It was Sunday afternoon and there were quite a few people there, but there wasn't a big line, so we went in - for free - and were able to see the Basilica for a few hours.  We paid extra to go to the museum.  There was some art, a lot of artifacts, and some very interesting items - including little holders that have body parts from dead saints and popes.

Wandering on the streets of Rome

A view from the top of the steps that took us to Vatican

While wandering we came right to the Vatican wall!


Entrance to the Vatican Museums. It is closed on Sundays, so you see no lines!

Saint Peter's Plaza

Saint Peter's Plaza

Saint Peter's Plaza

Saint Peter's Plaza, view of the Basilica

The Basilica itself is very impressive.  We explained to the children that even though we have different religious beliefs, that this was a place of worship and that we should be reverent and respectful.  They did well.  The basilica is where they entomb the popes, and some of them are really on display (Lenin style), so that really got the kids' attention.  We spent about two hours walking around and really got to see things.

Entering Saint Peter's Basilica

Inside St. Peter's
Pope John Paul II Tomb
Another pope's tomb. There were a number of them here.

A view of the beautiful building.

Storm grate on the floor of polished brass. Papal keys in the middle.

Confessionals for Catholics who want to confess.

Girls examining a massive door at the exit

Swiss Guards at the entrance to Vatican City

The view of the Basilica. The chairs behind us are from the Pope's address to the public earlier that morning.

On our way back to our apartment, we stopped at a little pizza place.  One of the workers spoke a bit of English, and we used hand signals, smiles, and pointing to order.  It worked out well.  We had a very nice day and it really set the tone for the rest of our stay in Rome.

Some Sunday street market we came across while walking home from Vatican

Eating outside at the little pizza cafe

Rome at night! Beautiful!

Tuesday, October 6, 2015

Yuki Gets Babesiosis

One reason that we haven't put together a post for a few weeks is that we've been busy with the start of school - and the craziness that four kids and 3 different schedules, along with extracurricular activities, entails.  We are settling into the school routine quite well, and we will have a post about school a bit later.  However, one thing that happened at the end of the kids' second week of school and throughout their third week really made things a bit crazy for us.

On September 12th, Yuki began acting lethargic. She didn't want to eat her food in the evening.  That is a very atypical thing for our dog: a lover of food. She has had some problems with seizures in the past, so we wondered if maybe she was feeling ill.

On Sunday the 13th she wasn't feeling any better.  She was very lethargic and didn't even really want to go for her regular walks.  We thought that maybe she had some sort of a dog cold or flu.  We decided that we would watch her carefully to figure out what was happening.  Monday she was kind of the same, but by the late evening she was looking very bad.  Yulia decided to take her to the veterinarian in the morning.  It's a good thing that we did.

It turns out that she had been bitten by a tick.  The ticks here carry babesiosis, a disease that is in some ways similar to Malaria.  It turns out that this is quite common in the area.  We are used to tick season ending at the end of August, so we had not treated her for September.  (Read more about Babesiosis in dogs here).  In brief, the disease consists of piroplasms, which:

...infect and replicate in the red blood cells, resulting in both direct and immune-mediated hemolytic anemia, where the red blood cells (RBCs) are broken down through hemolysis (destruction) and hemoglobin is released into the body. This release of hemoglobin can lead to jaundice, and to anemia when the body cannot produce enough new red blood cells to replace the ones being destroyed. Immune-mediated hemolytic anemia is likely to be more clinically important than parasite-induced RBC destruction, since the severity of the condition does not depend on the degree of parasitemia. (Source)
When the vet saw Yuki he told us that if we had waited one more day to come in, she probably would not have made it.  As it was, the next week consisted of many trips to the veterinary clinic across town to get treatment.  For the first four days we needed to go twice a day to have a series of drugs pumped into her with an IV.  The first day they gave a medicine that kills the parasites, and then the rest of the time they gave here a cocktail of gamma globulin,  vitamins, and other nutrients, along with IV fluids.  By the end of Tuesday (the 15th, Yuki's eyes and skin were yellow from the hemoglobin, and her liver was beginning to fail.)

Yulia and I took turns taking Yuki to her morning vet appointment (mostly Yulia, but I took her one day).  We both took her to the evening appointments, which lasted for a week, after we had put the kids to bed. This meant that we were out until 11:00 or 11:30 for most nights in addition to having our very full days with the kids.

***

We hadn't been too impressed with the veterinary clinic when we took Yuki there in late spring to get her rabies vaccine (required once per year here instead of every three years).  The clinic is on the first floor of an apartment building.  It is small, smells of dogs, cats, and urine, and has peeling paint, scuffed and peeling linoleum, and a stuffy atmosphere.

Our opinion changed when we saw how hard the vets worked and how they took care of Yuki and the many other dogs (at least 3 or 4 others that we met had the same problem) that were suffering from severe symptoms. The clinic is not much to look at, but they were professional in handling their job. And they all fell in love with Yuki!

Yuki's last treatment.  By this time she was very unwilling to lay still  The first few times she had her treatments, she just laid there and took it. 

***
The first two days of the treatment were still very rough - and we were not certain that she was going to make it.  When they began giving fluids, she couldn't control her bladder and so we had to buy some diapers to put her in around the house.  She showed no interest in anything and simply slept, or laid in her kennel staring.  She didn't even look up when I would come home from work - a huge change from the dog that practically jumps out of her skin when she sees me normally - even if I've just been gone for two minutes. It did not look good.

Yuki wearing a diaper and some briefs that used to be William's, our friends' 4-year old son.

One very sick dog!

Yuki began to look better and show a little bit of interest by the third day.  She was able to control her bladder and she began to eat a bit of food on her own. By the fourth day she was looking good, if still a bit weak.

After her week of treatment she looked good, and was walking and doing normal things, but still didn't want to play.  That has changed now.  Not only that, but she seems to have stored up a bunch of naughty energy that she had to get out.  She spent the last week in trouble for going through the garbage, climbing on the furniture, and generally being a pain.  We're so glad to have her back!


The first time she decided to play after being sick, she couldn't decide which ball she liked the most... so she brought both!